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Car warranties are excellent protection against manufacturing defects or workmanship errors. With a car warranty, manufacturers promise that within a certain time frame, your new car purchase will function as promised. But car warranties are not blank checks from the manufacturer to pay for any necessary repairs. Certain things you do can cancel the agreement of the car warranty.

1. Don’t use the right fluids in your car.

When your car manual says to use a specific type of oil (or any other type of fluid) in your car, use that type. They spend lots of money to figure out what will help the car work most efficiently, and they aren’t just “suggesting,” they are insisting. You might find a better deal on a cheaper type, and in the interest of saving money, you could be tempted to go against the manufacturer’s instructions. But here’s a warning for you – if you use the wrong type of oil and your engine seizes up, your car warranty won’t cover the repair.

2. Don’t install the right tires on your car.

You might think it’s really cool to “pimp your ride” by adding some special modifications to your car, like “dubs” or special lifts that change the height of car with lift or lower kits. Unfortunately, your car was not designed to ride like that. Modified tires or a different center of gravity in your car can drastically alter the torque on your chassis and axle bearings. If your modifications can be traced as the root of a problem, your repair won’t be covered by your car warranty.

3. Don’t save your receipts.

You probably know that you aren’t required to go to your dealer for regular maintenance. What you may not know is that every time you take your car to another service center, you absolutely need to save your receipts. And not just your credit card slip. Make sure you leave with a detailed list of all the fluids, filters and other parts that were used during service. If there’s a contest over coverage on your warranty, the manufacturer can 1. claim that you didn’t service the vehicle according to maintenance instructions or 2. the service center didn’t use the correct parts. Save your receipts. If you’re not sure, go to the dealer. They are required by their contract with the manufacturer to keep very detailed record of any services performed.

4. Tow something.

Unless you own a heavy-duty truck that has a guaranteed capability to tow specific weights, don’t try it. If the manufacturer can prove you towed something, either a trailer or another vehicle — even a short distance — that could void your car warranty. Your car’s engine is probably not built to handle the strain of the extra weight, and any damages that occur after the tow would probably not be covered by your car warranty.

http://www.caranddriver.com/

Electronic Stability Control (ESC) is considered by many to be the most important safety feature on vehicles since the seatbelt. At the very least, it has reduced fatal crashes by 35%. This blog post will explain a little bit about how it works.

Yaw Rate Control

The yaw rate of a vehicle is the rotation of the vehicle around a vertical axis. This physics term describes the dangerous situation that occurs when the car skids around a turn. This sensor measures the steering wheel angle (where the driver intends the car to go) and at what rate the car is actually rotating to get there. Yaw Rate Control uses the functions of the Anti-Lock Brake System to correct the vehicle’s trajectory.

In essence, it corrects a probable loss in steering control. In addition to controlling the brakes individually, it can also modify the transmission and throttle output to slow the car down and increase torque in cooperation with the brakes to correct the path of the car.

Because of its effectiveness, ESC is now required to be standard on all vehicles from 2012 and beyond. It is known by several different names across the range of manufacturers, including the following:

• Electronic Stability Program (Dodge, Ford, Hyundai, Jeep, Suzuki)
• Dynamic Stability Control (Land Rover, Mazda)
• Vehicle Stability Assist (Honda, Acura, Hyundai)
• StabiliTrak (Buick, Cadillac, Chevrolet, GM, Pontiac, Saturn)
• Vehicle Dynamics Control (Subaru, Fiat, Infiniti, Nissan)
• Precision Control System (Oldsmobile)

https://wwwx.cs.unc.edu/~hays/

It seems like such a rarity these days – a car with a severe rust problem. Perhaps the manufacturers have developed better paint or sealers. For whatever reason, it usually takes years for rust to develop on vehicles. If rust does develop in the first few years, usually 3-5, the damage might be covered under your standard car warranty, specifically the corrosion coverage.

Like most car warranties, they offer protection against manufacturing defects, but only for a certain period of time. Just like when you buy a CD, the store won’t replace it for you when the disc gets scratched. Cars are a little different, though. They have car warranties, and consumers are offered a baseline of protection for this very large purchase they made.

Corrosion, or rust, is usually caused when the paint has been chipped due to debris, gravel or pebbles. When the raw sheet metal is exposed to the elements, it can oxidize, causing unsightly rust that will only spread to surrounding areas. Surface rust can usually be remedied by sanding the rust and surrounding areas down to the raw metal and repainting and resealing the area.

But that’s not what corrosion coverage in a car warranty will cover. The vast majority of car warranties offer corrosion coverage, but only for perforations, not simple surface rust along the edges.

Preventing Rust

• You can prevent rust by following a few simple guidelines:
• Wash your car often – every two weeks in the winter especially if there is salt on the roads
• Wax your car every few months to protect the finish
• Examine your car carefully every few months for nicks or scratches. Don’t neglect the undercarriage and trunk areas.
• If you find a nick or a scratch, seal it as soon as you can. The best choice is touch-up paint, but clear nail polish will also offer protection.

If you think you might have a claim for corrosion based on your car warranty coverage, see your car dealer as soon as possible to speed up the claims process.

http://denverhomeinspectornews.com/

Call it a TCS (Traction Control System) or ASR (Anti-Slip Regulator)… for many drivers it can be a lifesaver, especially if you are not familiar with driving in slippery conditions. It’s not just for ice-covered winter roads. Traction control can also assist when there’s water on the road during other seasons of the year.

First Warning

If you’ve ever driven on an icy road, you remember that floating feeling that occurs when one or more of your wheels is spinning but isn’t gaining any purchase on the ground you’re covering. It might feel like you are slowing down, and often, drivers will accelerate when they feel the sensation. The TCS stops that impulse and takes control over those car functions.

• Inhibit or reduce spark to one of the engine cylinders
• Limit fuel supply to one of the cylinders
• Close the throttle if appropriate
• Activate one or more of the brakes if needed

Although Traction Control has been available on high-performance vehicles since the 1990s, the function has become more and more widespread as it appears on less expensive vehicles. In addition to the safety control of the microprocessor that makes all of the decisions, a warning light will often appear on the dashboard to warn the driver of slippery conditions. With winter’s deadly black ice, your car might be aware of bad conditions before you are.

If you aren’t fortunate enough to have TCS/ASR on your vehicle, there are other ways you can drive more cautiously on bad roads.

• Run the air conditioner (on hot, in the winter) to remove condensation from the inside of your windows.
• Make sure your wiper blades and headlights are in good working order.
• Replace your tires if needed. Bald tires spell disaster on icy roads.
• Learn proper braking procedure. In vehicles with ABS brakes, just stomp, stay and steer. In non-ABS vehicles, pump your brakes slowly to avoid locking your tires. Tires that aren’t moving provide very little traction, so it helps to gain traction by maintaining friction.

Traction Control might sound similar to Electronic Stability Control, which is mandatory on all vehicles manufactured in 2012 and beyond. It is indeed similar, but it operates in a different way. We’ll explore ESC in a future blog post.

http://www.carbuyermax.com

When researching car warranties, the term “powertrain” is used quite often. Most major car manufacturers have two types of warranties on all new cars: a bumper-to-bumper warranty and a powertrain warranty. The powertrain warranty usually lasts a lot longer, up to ten years or even for life, but this particular car warranty doesn’t cover the entire car but only portions of it.

What does a powertrain warranty cover?

In short, a powertrain warranty covers the parts of a vehicle that cause it to go. This includes, but is not generally limited to, the following:

• Engine
• Transmission
• Drive axle
• Differentials

If any of those parts fail in a car, the car is usually worthless to the owner, so prompt and reliable repair of any failures is essential. That’s why car manufacturers are eager to offer powertrain warranty coverage. While they might not feel inclined to fix the heating system after 50,000 miles, a broken transmission should be covered a bit longer.

Always read the fine print on your car warranty, however. Even the almighty powertrain warranty for a specific brand might not cover general wear and tear on your car. For instance, most powertrain car warranties will cover the transmission but will not cover the clutch unit. If you’ve ever driven a stick shift, you know that operator error plays a huge role in how soon a clutch will wear out. The manufacturer doesn’t want to be held responsible for damage that you cause.

Other exclusions that might not seem that important at first (but will become very important to you in the event of a failure) could be cabling, sensors or electrical. While these smaller parts might not cost as much to replace outright, the diagnostics at your local dealer or mechanic can take hours, and you’ll be liable for that cost as well.

The value of any car warranty is in the coverage details. Ask your dealer the tough questions about what is covered and don’t be fooled by the glossy packaging. Weigh your options carefully before making a purchase.

http://www.oneprojectcloser.com

It’ll happen to all of us eventually… that dreaded “click click” sound when you turn the ignition. Your battery is dead, and no amount of “clicking” is going to bring it back to life again. If you’ve already jump-started your car a few times in the last month, you should probably consider replacing your car battery, a relatively inexpensive piece of machinery (often less than 100 bucks).

Tools Needed

• A couple wrenches or pliers
• Hammer
• Baking soda and water
• Paintbrush
• Rag
• Wire brush

DIY Steps to Replace Your Battery

1. Make sure your car’s electric system isn’t active by removing the keys from the ignition.
2. Brush a solution of baking soda and water onto the battery terminals with your paintbrush. This concoction is great for removing sulfate which builds up on the terminals over time. Sulfate makes the battery terminal cables really hard to remove, but it also interferes with the electrical connection. Tap the terminals with the hammer to help loosen the deposits. Wipe away the baking soda solution.
3. Check the battery case for any cracks where battery acid might leak out while you’re moving it. Make a note of the cracks so you will avoid touching those areas. Although it provides very little protection, a layer of duct tape over the cracks can help identify those areas.
4. Use a crescent wrench or pair of pliers to remove the battery terminal cables. Start with the negative one (it’s black). These are fastened with basic nuts and bolts, but they are on tight. Use the hammer to tap the wrench to help loosen the connection further for very stubborn bolts. Once the cables are loose, set your tools away from the battery and gently lift the cables off of the terminals. (Your metal tools can cause an electrical charge, and the moment when the cables come off the terminals can be a little dangerous.)
5. There should also be a plate near the bottom of the battery that holds it in place. This usually has the same nuts/bolts combination as on top.
6. When the battery is free, lift it straight up very slowly while wearing sturdy gloves. Some batteries have a handle on top, but some don’t or the handle has corroded off. Regardless of where you have to grasp the battery, lift it up and be sure to not let any battery acid splash out. Set the battery on the ground.
7. Give the terminal cables and clamps a good cleaning again, preferably with a battery terminal cleaner. You can also spray the clamps with an anti-corrosion spray that will limit the build-up of sulfate on your new battery.
8. Seat your new battery in its new home. Reverse the process you did to remove the old battery, starting with the positive terminal (it’s red). Once both terminals are attached, fasten any bolts that hold the battery in place. These might seem inconsequential, but they are key if you ever end up driving over a speed bump too quickly or any other bump in the road.
9. Try the ignition. Hopefully, if the dead battery was your problem in the first place, it should start right up.
10. Dispose of your old battery responsibly. Some states require the store where you bought your new battery to take your old one. If not, you need to bring your old battery to a toxic waste disposal center on your own. This is crucial, since the battery acid and lead is deadly to the environment. Many times, your old battery components can be recycled into new batteries, so you’re doing an extra good turn for the environment.

Happy driving!

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Emissions testing is not a new requirement. The federal government has issued standards for emissions already in 1972. Since that time, car manufacturers have continued to improve the vehicle components that control emissions. Most states require emissions testing, and you have recourse to your car manufacturer for repairs to regain compliance.

Performance Warranty

The most basic and immediate of warranties after the purchase of your new vehicle is a performance warranty that protects you from repair costs in the event your car fails an emissions test. You could be protected under a performance warranty if you meet the following criteria:

• Your car or light-duty truck fails an approved emissions test
• Your vehicle is less than two years old and has less than 24,000 miles (and up to eight years and 80,000 miles for certain components)
• Your state government orders you to make repairs
• The test failure is not the result of vehicle misuse or neglect on your part to follow the manufacturer’s written vehicle maintenance instructions
• You present your vehicle to a certified warranty-authorized manufacturer’s representative (often a dealer), along with evidence of the emissions test failure, during the warranty period.

Design and Defect Warranty

The design and defect warranty covers emissions-related parts that require repair or replacement due to workmanship errors or design defects. The warranty coverage varies by the type of vehicle you have, i.e., RVs, motorcycles, heavy-duty trucks, light-duty trucks, sedans, etc. You can find the specific warranty information for your vehicle in your owner’s manual, as well as instructions on how to submit a warranty claim. Even design defects have a warranty period, and if your vehicle is old enough, repair won’t be covered. Also note that the design and defect warranty is only applicable to vehicles manufactured since 1995.

For more information, the Environmental Protection Agency has issued a very helpful, very detailed explanation of vehicle emissions along with frequently asked questions.

www.astrosafari.com

Basic car repairs and maintenance don’t always mean you need to sell your soul to a mechanic. Sometimes you just need some good instructions and a bit of confidence in your ability to tell the difference between a socket wrench and a monkey wrench. If you hear a high-pitched squealing when your engine is running, you will want to check the condition of your drive belt.

How to tell if your drive belt needs to be replaced:

• The smooth side of the belt has fraying edges or cracks
• The ribbed underside is missing rubber chunks

How to change the serpentine drive belt:

Assemble the tools you’ll need:

• ratchet and socket set
• screwdriver
• pencil & paper
• new belt
• belt tension gauge

1. Access the belt by removing the radiator cover if necessary. This is where you’d need the screwdriver.
2. If there’s not a placard under the hood that shows a diagram of how the belt is routed, draw yourself a picture with pencil and paper. This is a crucial step because if you mis-route the new belt and you try to run your air conditioning system with a backwards belt, you can fry the system.
3. Loosen the tensioner pulley with a ratchet. It won’t come off, but the ratchet will create a handle that you can pull to release the tension on the belt. With one hand holding the ratchet, unthread the old belt from the pulley system.
4. Examine the old belt next to the new belt to make sure it’s the right size. If you buy a belt that is too small, you’ll really hate yourself in about five minutes when you are trying to fit a too-small belt on your pulley system. Check the old belt for any oily residue. If there is any, you need to find the leak (usually around the head gasket of the engine) and fix it. Oil on a rubber belt will cause it to degrade rapidly and you’ll be stuck replacing the belt again in a few months.
5. Use a straight edge to check the pulley system to make sure they are all in the same plane and are level. If any of the pulleys are belt or warped, the steel brackets that hold the accessory and pulley can be bent back into place, the pulley itself can be replaced cheaply or re-set with shim washers. This step is important because if the pulleys are out of plane, your new belt will wear out very quickly. Also check all of the pulley grooves for dirt and oil build-up. Clean out the grooves with brake cleaner and a wire brush if necessary.
6. Once you’ve taken care of your belt’s new home, simply pull the tensioner pulley back again and thread the new belt into place, following your diagram. If you think you’re doing it wrong, don’t fret. Sometimes the water pump is operated by the smooth side of the belt. When the belt is set, start the engine and let it idle for a couple minutes. Then, turn off the engine and re-check the belt tension. Torque the tensioner unit with a wrench until the belt tension is correct. A belt tension gauge (purchased at your local auto parts store) can assist with this step if your tension unit doesn’t have hash marks to help you identify the correct tension.
7. Replace the radiator cover if you removed it to begin with. Wrap up your old belt and stash it with your spare tire in the trunk. You never know if someday you’ll be stranded in the middle of nowhere with a snapped belt, and a worn-out belt is better than no belt at all.

www.thecarconnection.com

When you’re shopping for your next new vehicle, it’s important for you to understand the details of what warranty the dealer is trying to offer you with the sale of your car. Many car dealers will try to upsell you an extended warranty that offers more coverage. This may or may not be helpful to you. Peace of mind costs money, and it’s up to you to decide if the additional coverage is worth the extra money.

A standard manufacturer’s warranty will usually cover the vehicle for a limited number of years (2-5) and a limited number of miles (up to 50,000, sometimes). The warranty will often guarantee free repairs if the car breaks down within the term of the warranty. For instance, if your transmission fails in the first year, your warranty should completely cover the replacement or repair of your transmission.

There are two basic types of standard car warranty: powertrain (or drivetrain) and bumper-to-bumper. A powertrain warranty will cover only the components of the vehicle that actually make it go down the road, like the engine and the transmission. A bumper-to-bumper warranty covers more – it covers everything between the bumpers, from the powertrain components to the wipers and the heating and cooling system. If the word “limited” is attached to either of these types of car warranties, it generally means that the warranty excludes any damage from basic wear and tear, i.e., needing new brake pads or tire replacement.

Powertrain Coverage

• The engine, transmission, and anything else that makes the car go down the road.

Bumper-to-Bumper Coverage

• Everything between the bumpers, including heating/cooling, stereo, etc.

Always read the fine print when buying a new car. Knowing exactly what your car warranty covers will help you know who to call if you find yourself facing a steep repair bill. Before you invest in an extended warranty from your dealership, it’s also a good idea to get quotes online from third parties who offer extended service plans. You can get a quote for an extended service plan here.

2010 Ford Fusion

Ford owners who purchased the 2010 or 2011 models of the Ford Fusion and Mercury Milan will receive a recall letter in the mail in late January 2012 due to a wheel separation issue. Car owners will be asked to bring their vehicle into their local dealer to have the rear disc brakes checked for flatness, bolts checked for fractures and to have the lug nuts replaced.

Any time there is a recall like that of the Ford Fusion recall and Mercury Milan recall, car owners are likely to feel a rising swell of panic because of circumstances out of their control. These car repair concerns are not predictable, unlike needing to have an oil filter replaced every 3,000 miles. Those basic maintenance issues can be planned and budgeted for.

Car repairs brought to light in recalls such as this are completely covered by the manufacturer. For other car repairs, the cost might seem prohibitive when you know the total cost must come out of your own pocket. Make sure you are protected in case of car malfunctions by exploring your options for an extended service plan for your vehicle.

Cars are recalled by the manufacturer at the order of the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration. You can see all product recalls, not just vehicles, at Recalls.gov. This site acts as a national clearinghouse for all safety recall information.  Another government site, Safercar.gov, is focused solely on the automotive industry and features helpful information on car safety, car buying advice and much more.